are we nearly there yet?

our last view of the Pamirs

Riding into Sary Tash across the big grassy plain we sweep up Hanne and Tyson who had also pitched camp before the village.  Rob also caught up with us last night so when we roll into the village there are ten of us.  A bicycle caravan.  We raid the local shop ("Ooh look, eggs! vegetables!!") and cook an impromptu brunch by the village stream.

and that's only half of us

Out of Sary Tash is a climb up to a double pass.  Conscious of the ridiculous size of our group we all set out in separate stages, but the climb is a great leveller.  Coming down from the first pass we find Tyson, Hanne and Rob in conversation with two cyclists coming the other way.  We know them - it's Ollie and Dan who we met in Istanbul at the beginning of the year.  We're so happy to see them again after all their adventures.  Bizarrely, Tyson knows of them too - he left a note on their bikes at the Sumelian Monastery near Trabzon but has never met them.  The small world of overland cyclists.  We stop a long while chatting and catching up.  They are on their way to the Chinese border crossing to Kashgar, taking the road east from Sary Tash.

not so supersized

As we start heading up to the second pass I turn a corner and hear a coal truck rumbling up behind me.  Some of the trucks have loaded trailers too, so they are pretty slow - almost as slow as me.  This one seems to have something to hang onto at the back so I try it.  My first tow.  The pass comes after a short while by which time my left arm has grown by three inches.  Gayle and Dino follow behind by their own steam.  The descent is a wonderful switchback drop into a narrow valley filled with yurts and caravans.
 

Wheeeee!

The next day we ride into Gulcha with Hanne and Tyson for lunch in a restaurant.  It feels almost decadent.  We know there's one more pass before Osh so we set off early afternoon trying to beat the looming rainclouds.  Up ahead are Rob, Hannah and Damian, whom we all pass.  Damian makes a joke about a sprint finish to the top.  The race is on.  Unfortunately no-one else seems to realise. Rob paces himself.  Tyson dawdles.  Hannah is trailing.  Hanne makes a go of it and up we go.  The rain starts.  I pause to put on waterproofs and Damian steams past. The rain stops.  Hanne has waited to give Tyson his jacket and a Snickers bar.  The climb continues.  There's false summit after false summit.  I hear a coal truck heaving up the road behind me and get ready for a tow.  Now, that's better.  Except the road narrows and I end up on the verge, so I have to let go.  No problem though, there's another truck right behind.  As I get ready to hang off the back of it, a voice pipes up "Seat taken".  It's Tyson taking a ride.  Hanne is furious after waiting for him.  Gayle catches me up "You might as well get a lift!"  And the climb continues.  It's over 1000m ascent but despite us all being pumped full of red blood cells the climb is tough. The reward is worth it - more or less 60km of descent to Osh.   We pause at the pass.  All around us on the mountainsides are yurts, horses, families.  Lots of kids.  They're here for the summer grazing their animals.

the road to Osh

On the way down we meet herders driving their sheep up the road.  And one or two naughty boys who think it's fun to wave sickles at cyclists kung-fu style or try and block the road.  A little 'fatherly advice' in their ear sorts them out. Their grasp of colloquial English is quite impressive.  And finally, after one more camp by the river, we reach Osh - the end of the Pamir Highway.  From Dushanbe to here we have experienced some of the best cycling we've ever had and shared it with a surprising number of cyclists.  We knew we would meet a few - we just didn't expect to ride with so many.  The plus side of this is that we've had really good company each evening with some very special people and we've learnt a lot.  Robert in particular has been an inspiration - quick with the one-liners and always on the look out for a cup of tea.  What's incredible is that on his first cycle tour he has done a roundtrip from Osh crossing the Pamirs on probably the two toughest routes.  No wonder he has a sore arse.

Robert can spot a pot of tea at fifty yards